By Kyle Smith
Monday, August 10, 2020
New York City must be one of the few places on earth
where chaos nostalgia is widespread. Many were the laments, in the
Giuliani-Bloomberg era, that the city was “too sanitized,” “too gentrified,”
“too boring,” “anodyne,” “suburban.” Often you’d hear people saying, or
declaiming, that their ideal vision of the city was the 1970s–1980s one — oh,
for the New York of CBGB, of Lou Reed, of the Tompkins Square Park riots.
Occasionally people would sneeringly express revulsion that the sidewalks were
teeming with strollers. What have we done, we’ve made this place safe enough
for babies! And yet the population, which was smaller in 1990 than it was
in 1940, boomed. More than a million more New Yorkers squeezed in between 1990
and 2010. It was as if a city the size of Austin grew atop the existing city.
On a return visit this weekend to the Upper West Side
neighborhood where I’ve lived for more than a quarter of a century, the fear in
the air was palpable. The population seemed to be reduced by about half. New
Yorkers steer around each other on the sidewalks, some of them walking in the
street to avoid passing near a stranger. A lady declined to ride the elevator
with me and my children. People are especially terrified of the subway, whose
ridership is down 80 percent from normal levels. Friday night, at a time when
there would ordinarily be 50 or more people riding on any given car of the 1
train, there were about seven. Downtown was morose, grim, broken. Graffiti (the
anarchists’ symbol, “ACAB” for “All Cops Are Bastards”) was much in evidence.
Mask compliance is almost universal on the Upper West
Side: easily 90 percent. The area is defined by college-educated white folk
over 40. These are rich people, they’re rule-followers, and if following one
more rule might help them ace the virus the way they aced every other test in
their lives, they’re going to follow it to a T. Mask wearing, like every other
habit, is also a kind of class signifier. Less affluent-looking people are far
more likely to wear them pulled down like a chin strap. When it’s 85 degrees
out and you wear a mask out of doors for any length of time, though, your face
starts to sweat, and breathing can become a chore. Because there are so many
people on the sidewalk and you can’t avoid passing close to others, you have to
spend much more time with a mask on here in the city than in a more sparsely
populated place, which makes mask wearing a kind of extra New York tax or
burden, along with all of the others. I spent more time wearing a mask in the
city this weekend than I did the entire summer on Long Island, which was
irritating. Some of the most irritable people on earth now have a major
additional reason to be irritable.
Restaurant interiors remain closed, so New Yorkers fill
the outdoor tables at lunch and dinner, dining in some cases on the sidewalks
but in others actually in the street, protected only by wooden barriers from
passing traffic. Happy, chatty (unmasked) diners crowded all of the better
Upper West Side places Friday night — inches away from trucks rumbling by,
sprinkling the invisible or not-so-invisible contents of their exhaust pipes on
people’s Cobb salads.
Several blocks are frozen in time. The multiplex at 84th
and Broadway is still festooned with posters from March movies that were never
to be released theatrically. But there wasn’t a lot of looting in this area
because the stores aren’t luxurious enough. “Today’s generation of looters have
very refined taste,” a lifelong resident sardonically tells me. Still, several
storefronts are boarded up, and scores more in the neighborhood are vacant. At
85th and Broadway, the Victoria’s Secret and a luxury shoe store are boarded
over, and so is a third business on the block, leaving only a lone cupcake shop
on the block cheerfully trying to stay afloat amid the desolation.
Because there is scaffolding over the sidewalk related to
repairing the stonework above, this is one of many such sheltered blocks where
homeless people sack out on the sidewalk. Sunday afternoon, two homeless women
had built up a small encampment in front of the plywood walls of the Victoria’s
Secret. Nearby, in the middle of Broadway, a disheveled and mentally ill man
familiar to neighborhood residents walked in traffic, muttering to himself. At
78th and Broadway, the Cuban-Chinese restaurant La Caridad, a neighborhood
favorite for more than half a century, has gone out of business. A few blocks
south, on West 72nd Street, where there was a socially distanced line of people
easily 100 yards long awaiting entry to Trader Joe’s in the early afternoon, a
homeless encampment extended for 20 feet. A ragged man slept on a filthy
mattress in the open air.
Mayor Bill de Blasio has filled three Upper West Side
hotels that previously catered to European tourists with hundreds of homeless
people, drug addicts, and sex offenders, and the New York Post’s wood on Sunday was
UPPER WEST SLIDE. The Post isn’t making this up. Outside one of the
hotels, the Belleclaire, a dazed-looking man stood on the corner in a bathrobe
and slippers. A few yards away, a perky half-dozen or so leftists responded to
the Post story by bringing a large box of colored chalk and scrawling welcoming
slogans to the homeless in several colors on the sidewalk in front of the
entrance to the Belleclaire.
Even in this exceedingly well-heeled corner of Manhattan,
the disorder is in your face, everywhere. In my building, someone has been
sneaking in, grabbing people’s mail and packages from the lobby where they
normally sit unmolested, and opening them in the stairwell, discarding whatever
items have no interest. Walking down the stairs, I found an opened envelope
containing two new passports, and delivered it to the addressee in the
building.
Manhattan has been reduced to a diehard remnant of true
believers. Often wealthy New Yorkers get accused of being NIMBYs and
hypocrites, but I don’t think that’s always the case. I never tire of reminding
non–New Yorkers that the era-redefining election of Rudy Giuliani was a
squeaker. Half of New Yorkers evidently were unwilling to part with ideology
over interests, and Giuliani got less than 51 percent of the vote against the
disaster merchant David Dinkins, his margin of victory delivered by white
working-class voters in the outer boroughs. That cohort has mostly gone,
replaced with immigrants and hipsters.
There is no push for law and order in New York. The next
mayor of the city will likely be to de Blasio’s left, not his right. He or she
will argue that New York’s troubles are the fault of the plutocracy, the
patriarchy, and white privilege, and whatever Upper West Siders remain behind
will enthusiastically applaud. New Yorkers aren’t hypocrites; they’re
masochists.
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