By Nick Catoggio
Monday, October 26, 2026
I seldom feel nostalgic for the old right-wing
blogosphere, but watching an outrage jamboree form in real time on social media
over something Barack Obama said will do the trick.
Obama was in Michigan this weekend campaigning for
Democratic Senate candidate Abdul El-Sayed. He came armed with a series of
one-liners about Donald Trump’s preoccupation with “home renovations” and
eventually steered around to the Oval Office’s new decor. “There’s gold
everywhere. What’s up with the gold?” he wondered.
“He’s got the White House looking like Saddam Hussein opened a Cheesecake
Factory.”
Pretty good. I’d describe the aesthetic as “Liberace but gayer,” but I understand why
that might not fly at a Democratic political rally.
As the clip of Obama’s joke circulated, the MAGA
commentariat began to hum with populist indignation. “Classic Obama snobbery,”
Republican strategist Matt
Whitlock sniffed. “Cheesecake Factory is a great option for people who
can’t afford a private chef at their Martha’s Vineyard estate.” Author Evan
Barker agreed: “The coastal elites hate Americana. We know what they really
think, and we know why they are so quickly defending Obama’s snobbery. They
might think they are ‘too good’ for the Cheesecake Factory, or find the decor
to be tacky, but most regular Americans don’t.”
On and on it went. “Makes speeches for [$500,000] a pop,”
CNN Trump apologist Scott
Jennings said of Obama. “Hasn’t eaten dinner that costs less than $250 in
years. Has never been in a Cheesecake Factory. Undefeated at condescending to
regular folks.” Angriest of all was Steve
Krakauer, Megyn Kelly’s producer, who normally has a very
high tolerance
for offensive remarks but appeared to reach his limit with this “elitist
garbage written by a speechwriter who clearly hasn’t spent much time in a
Cheesecake Factory, which has none of the gaudy Trump aesthetic, and just feels
good to say because it represents flyover MAGA ‘night out.’”
It felt like 2015 again. Nostalgia is usually stupid
(especially as a political
ethos), as it’s almost always a case of projecting wistfulness for the
simplicity of one’s youth onto the zeitgeist of the era in which that youth was
spent. But life really was better when right-wing media got to spend its
days grousing about some Obama soundbite instead of mindlessly propagandizing
for a fascist
racketeering operation that makes no bones about its
hostility to dark-skinned undesirables.
And I suspect a fair share of people who still work in
right-wing media would admit it privately. The eruption of outrage in this
weekend’s throwback kerfuffle appeared cathartic, and no wonder: Populist
Republicans have spent the better part of two years trying to choke down a s--t
sandwich so enormous that it would put even the Cheesecake Factory’s portion
sizes to shame. Getting to dine out for an afternoon on old-school “Obama’s a
snob” argle-bargle must have tasted like candy and ice cream by comparison.
It also revealed how shallow and confused right-wing
populism has become. Or always has been.
Temples to excess.
Let’s stipulate up front that the Cheesecake Factory is
fantastic.
I say that not to disassociate myself from Obama’s
alleged elitism but because it’s true. What Las Vegas is to nightlife and
Disney World is to theme parks, the Cheesecake Factory is to chain restaurants.
The menu is 75 pages long, it offers dishes from every type of world cuisine,
and the servings are large enough to bloat a water buffalo. Polish off your
dinner with a slice of one of the 50 or so different cheesecakes they offer,
and you might easily end up consuming a day’s worth of calories in one meal.
It’s a temple to excess. If you don’t like it, you don’t
like America. Barack Obama must not like America.
But Obama didn’t say anything about not liking the
restaurant, did he?
His joke was about the chain’s decor, which is tacky and incoherent—and deliberately so. It enhances the
“pleasure palace” fantasy, the same way the lights in Vegas and the Cinderella
Castle at Disney World do. In all three cases, patrons are seeking some sort of
hedonistic indulgence; the more unreal the atmosphere is, the less inhibited
they’re apt to feel in their pursuit of enjoyment. Somehow, eating a
football-sized cheeseburger seems less strange when you’re digging in next to a
plaster Egyptian obelisk.
You go to the Cheesecake Factory for the same reason you
go to the amusement park or to the casino: to escape. It’s a magical world
where the usual rules of day-to-day life don’t apply.
As it turns out, whether Obama meant it this way or not,
that’s a fantastic metaphor for the Trump White House. The usual rules of
day-to-day life don’t apply there either, as behavior that might get you indicted and/or imprisoned anywhere else in America enjoys total legal impunity. And the gilded fixtures and moldings
are plainly designed to enhance a fantasy of royalty, just as Trump’s new
ballroom is. The president wishes he were a king, conducts himself like one as
often as he can get away with, and has plastered the walls around him with
evidence of his ambitions.
When you walk into an Oval Office that looks like a
Cheesecake Factory designed by Saddam Hussein, you know you’re a courtier at an
autocrat’s palace—and that, if you succeed in earning his favor, you might be
granted the corrupt pardon or tariff waiver or no-bid government contract your
heart desires. The White House too has become a magical land, a temple to
excess.
So why do so many MAGA types have a bug up their behinds
about what Obama said?
RETVRN?
Partly it’s reflex, as I suggested earlier. When you
spend eight years wringing content out of every debatably controversial thing
that a particular person says, and then that person goes and says something
debatably controversial, the Pavlovian bell will ring and the proverbial dogs
will salivate. Old habits die hard, and right-wingers have been in the habit of
attacking Obama for elitism since (at least) the days of Arugula-gate in 2007.
Partly it’s electoral strategy. You may have noticed that
the GOP’s midterm closing argument is light on policy and extremely heavy on demagoguery (and admiring people’s asses) even by Trumpist standards. That’s in keeping with
the president’s belief that the key to winning this year, or at least holding
down losses, is to forget about persuading undecideds and instead get
disaffected Republicans excited to vote. “Pretend I’m on the ballot” is part of that. So is calling Abdul El-Sayed a terrorist. So is the “us against
the media” dynamic created by Vivek Ramaswamy’s loathsome
attack on Amy Acton in Ohio.
If greater right-wing rage means greater right-wing
turnout, then Barack Obama supposedly insulting blue-collar aesthetic
sensibilities is a hanging curveball for Republican partisans. It’s a callback
to the “bitter-clinger” controversy of 2008, in which the
would-be first black president looked down his Columbia-and-Harvard-educated
nose at the cultural preferences of rural whites. And now here he is, allegedly
still doing it nearly 20 years later. Get angry!
Mostly, though, I think this weekend’s uproar is a case
of Trumpism revealing its vapidity. How facile must one’s commitment to
populism be to rise in indignant defense of the Cheesecake Factory’s decor?
Normally if you ask a postliberal about modern
aesthetics, they’ll give you a sermon about
classical beauty. From architecture and fashion to industrial policy and
immigration, we need to go back is the absolute essence of the movement.
And so, one might think, MAGA types would share Obama’s critique of chain
restaurant decor. What is the “RETVRN” argument, exactly, for the Cheesecake
Factory’s—or, for that matter, the White House’s—garish kitsch?
Better yet, what’s the populist argument for the
Cheesecake Factory, period? “The rise of chain restaurants created
over-the-top, replicable dining experiences, which eventually put the final
squeeze on mom-and-pop restaurants,” menswear writer Derek
Guy said of the reaction to Obama’s comment. “I would argue those
family-owned neighborhood businesses made the dining experience feel more
special and pulled communities together. The shift to chain restaurants
homogenized American life and concentrated corporate power.”
We need to go back to classic American diners, not
corporate slop decked out with fake palm trees that serves food on hubcap-sized
plates is a more legible populist take about the Cheesecake Factory than
whining about Obama’s insult to “MAGA flyover ‘night out,’” as Krakauer put it.
Which, incidentally, isn’t accurate: More than half of the chain’s locations are in California, Texas, Florida, New
York, New Jersey, and Virginia, only one of which arguably qualifies as
“flyover.”
Even if you get past all of that, you’re left with
headscratchers. Why do Krakauer et al. assume that Cheesecake Factory customers
don’t share Obama’s opinion about its decor? Being middle class doesn’t doom
one to having poor aesthetic taste; I assume most of the chain’s patrons feel
about it as I do, that its tackiness is part of its charm. But if you disagree
and wish your own home could be adorned with replica Easter Island heads or
whatever they’re putting in there nowadays, you’re still left with the question
of why the Oval Office should be as tastelessly campy as a Cheesecake Factory.
That was Obama’s actual point, remember—not that there’s
no place for bad taste in our culture, inside or outside a chain restaurant,
just that the White House ain’t it. Can’t American populism muster a little
dignity and aesthetic restraint when styling the room where our head of state
conducts official business?
Populism without prosperity.
I don’t think so. Populism doesn’t do restraint, and it
sure as hell doesn’t do dignity.
I agree that the Oval Office looks hideous after Trump’s
“Louis XIV with brain damage” makeover, but I’d never tell you that it isn’t
true to the spirit of the man and his movement. If you’re going to barrel
through civic norms en route to amassing power, you might as well barrel
through aesthetic norms as well. In that sense alone, the president has done a
good job of decorating his workspace. The gaudiness efficiently communicates
the message “I’m going to do things my way, whether you like it or not, and no
sense of propriety will stop me.”
That’s how his administration operates, and that’s what
the gilded nightmare around him conveys.
It also leaves the president’s apologists stuck arguing
that bad taste is a hallmark of populist authenticity, which is why they landed
where they landed with the Cheesecake Factory, I think. If your politics holds
that The Common Man’s tastes are per se superior to those of the elites, then
you kind of have to believe that the famously cheesy decor of a popular chain
restaurant is worth defending simply because the hoi polloi love to eat there.
Follow that logic to its conclusion and eventually you’ll
find yourself on Twitter arguing that the reason Barack Obama doesn’t find gold
toilets classy is because he’s never been in touch with “the people.”
Still, I think the former president’s joke would have
passed largely unremarked upon on the right if Republicans had stronger
populist material to run on over the final week of the campaign. “Obama the
snob thinks you’re a slob for eating at this restaurant you like” is what you
say to the working class only when you’re completely out of economic
ammunition.
Until recently, Trumpists had a solid political argument
that right-wing populism meant prosperity. The pre-pandemic economy was robust
during the president’s first term and looked even better in hindsight when Joe
Biden’s term brought inflation not seen in decades. Republicans had a colorable
case in 2024 that a Trump restoration would mean cheaper goods, higher growth,
and much improved consumer confidence.
After tariffs, a war of choice that scrambled oil prices,
and a Big Beautiful Bill that cut Medicaid, there’s nothing left of that
prosperity pitch. Less than nothing, in fact: At a rally on Saturday, Trump
said “I
don’t give a damn” about temporarily high gas prices because American oil
producers are making bank selling their product during the Iran crisis. At
other events, he’s warned voters explicitly that he’ll penalize them if they
don’t elect Republicans. Either they won’t get those $5,000 checks he promised (which they won’t be getting
anyway) or he won’t assist in solving some
local problem that’s bedeviled them.
The president’s great populist revolution is now being
sustained by an orgy of swampy spending from filthy rich Republican megadonors, most notably Elon
Musk—who, over the past two election cycles, has spent more money on U.S.
elections than George Soros has over his entire life.
Think of “Cheesecake populism” of the sort we saw this
weekend, then, as an analog to “luxury
nationalism.” Luxury nationalism is nationalism stripped of the usual
demand for sacrifice; Cheesecake populism is populism stripped of the usual
promise of working-class prosperity. It offers culture war unto death against
left-wing elites without material improvement in the average joe’s standard of
living, which is why Obama’s joke was catnip to Trumpists. This liberal
looks down on you has always been the engine of MAGA grievance politics
more so than we want to help you get ahead has.
And don’t think that J.D. Vance, prospective Republican
nominee, doesn’t know it and isn’t worried about it.
Ironically, the implication that the Cheesecake Factory
is some oasis of affordable dining in an era of belt-tightening goes to show
how removed some of Obama’s critics are from economic populism. It’s true that
the chain is more reasonably priced than anything that resembles fine dining,
but if you feel squeezed financially, a night out there is a splurge. Burgers
are $20 and a proper entree runs even more, and of course you’re all but
obliged to order dessert if you go.
If there’s a “Cheesecake Factory vote” this fall, it’s
not going to come from voters who resent seeing liberals mock the ambiance at
their favorite restaurant. It’s going to come from twentysomethings who resent
the fact that they need to save up to have dinner at a place with Eye-of-Sauron light fixtures.
But that’ll probably suit the people who disliked Obama’s
joke just fine. They’re plainly starving to go back on offense after two
exhausting years of playing defense for Trump’s indefensible government. A
Democratic Congress will hit the spot.