Thursday, May 31, 2012
RUDESHEIM, Germany -- This week I am leading a military
history tour on the Rhine River from Basel, Switzerland, to Amsterdam. You can
learn a lot about Europe's current economic crises by just ignoring the
sophisticated barrage of news analysis and instead watching, listening, and
talking to people as you go down river.
Switzerland, by modern standards, should be poor. Like
Bolivia, it is landlocked. Like Italy, it has no real gas or oil wealth. Like
Afghanistan, its northern climate and mountainous terrain limit agricultural
productivity to upland plains. And like Turkey, it is not a part of the
European Union.
Unlike Americans, the Swiss are among the most
homogeneous people in the world, without much diversity, and make it nearly
impossible to immigrate there.
So Switzerland supposedly has everything going against
it, and yet it is one of the wealthiest nations in the world. Why and how?
To answer that is also to learn why roughly 82 million Germans produce almost as much national wealth as do 130 million Greeks, Portuguese, Italians, and Spaniards. Yet the climate of Germany is somewhat harsh; it too has no oil or gas. By 1945, German cities lay in ruins, while Detroit and Cleveland were booming. The Roman historian Tacitus remarked that pre-civilized Germany was a bleak land of cold weather, with little natural wealth and inhabited by tribal savages.
Race does not explain present-day national wealth. From
500 B.C. to A.D. 1300, Switzerland and Germany were considered brutal and
backward in comparison to classical Greece and Rome, and later Renaissance
Venice and Florence.
Instead, culture explains far more -- a seemingly taboo
topic when economists nonchalantly suggest that contemporary export-minded
Germans simply need to spend and relax like laid-back Southern Mediterraneans,
and that the latter borrowers save and produce like workaholic Germans to even
out the playing field of the European Union.
But government-driven efforts to change national behavior
often ignore stubborn cultural differences that reflect centuries of complex
history as well as ancient habits and adaptations to geography and climate.
Greeks can no more easily give up siestas than the Swiss can mandate two-hour
afternoon naps. If tax cheating is a national pastime in Palermo, in comparison
it is difficult along the Rhine.
I lived in Greece for over two years and often travel to
northern and Mediterranean Europe and North Africa. While I prefer the
Peloponnese to the Rhineland, over the years I have developed an unscientific
and haphazard -- but often accurate -- politically incorrect method of guessing
whether a nation is likely to be perennially insolvent and wracked by
corruption.
Do average passersby throw down or pick up litter? After
a minor fender-bender, do drivers politely exchange information, or scream and
yell with wild gesticulations? Is honking constant or sporadic? Are crosswalks
sacrosanct? Do restaurant dinners usually start or wind down at 9 p.m.? Can you
drink tap water, or should you avoid it? Do you mostly pay what the price tag
says, or are you expected to pay in untaxed cash and then haggle over the
unstated cost? Are construction sites clearly marked and fenced to protect
pedestrians, or do you risk walking into an open pit or getting stabbed by
exposed rebar?
To put these crude stereotypes more abstractly, is civil
society mostly moderate, predicated on the rule of law, and meritocratic -- or
is it better characterized by self-indulgence, cynicism and tribalism?
The answers to these questions do not hinge on race,
money or natural wealth, but they do involve culture and the way average people
predictably live minute by minute. Again, these national habits and traditions
accrued over centuries, and as much as politics or economics, they explain in
part why Bonn is not Athens, and Zurich is not Naples, or for that matter why Cairo
is unlike Tel Aviv or why Mexico City differs from Toronto.
There is one final funny thing about contemporary
culture. What people say and do about it are two different things. We in the
postmodern, politically correct West publicly pontificate that all cultures are
just different and to assume otherwise is pop generalization, but privately
assume that you would prefer your bank account to be in Frankfurt rather than
Athens, or the tumor in your brain to be removed in London rather than Lisbon.
A warm sunset with an ouzo on a Greek island beach may be
more relaxing than schnapps on the foggy Rhine shore, but to learn why Greeks
will probably not pay back what they owe Germany -- and do not believe that
they should have to -- take a walk through central Athens and then do the same
in Munich.